Trekking CougarsChoosing & Chasing Mountains
Published: July 2026 · Reading time: ~17 min · Written by Udit Tiwari, writer, Trekking Cougars
If the last thing you read about the Kheerganga Trek mentioned pitching a tent and falling asleep under the stars at the top, it’s out of date, and we mean that literally, not as a figure of speech. The trek to that hot spring is still one of the best beginner routes in the Parvati Valley. How you plan it changed completely in 2024, and if you don’t know that yet, you need to before you book anything.
The 2026 Rule You Need to Know First
In July 2024, the Himachal Pradesh Forest Department banned overnight camping at Kheerganga entirely. By that April, close to 500 tents had accumulated at the site, and the resulting garbage and environmental strain forced the Divisional Forest Officer’s hand. All camping infrastructure at Kheerganga was removed, a decision reported at the time by The Tribune. The ban remains fully in force for the 2026 season.
What this means in practice: Kheerganga is now a day-trek destination only. You must arrive before 10 AM and begin your descent by 2 PM. There are no exceptions written into the rule, and violators risk permit revocation and an FIR, not just a fine. If you want to stay overnight anywhere near Kheerganga, your options are the villages below it: Nakthan, Barshaini, Kalga, or Tosh, not the meadow itself.
This isn’t the first time this has happened here. A similar ban was enforced around 2018 under a High Court order, later relaxed, then reinstated in 2024 once crowding returned. The pattern suggests this specific meadow simply can’t absorb unlimited overnight tourism without repeating the same cycle, which is worth knowing if you’re wondering whether the rule might loosen again by the time you go. Plan as if it won’t.
Kheerganga at a Glance
| Altitude | 2,950 m (9,700 ft) |
| Distance | 11–12 km one way from Barshaini |
| Duration | 4–6 hours up, day-trek only since 2024 |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Overnight Stay | Not permitted at Kheerganga. Stay in Nakthan, Barshaini, Kalga, or Tosh instead. |
| Best Season | March–June, September–November |
| Nearest Airport | Bhuntar (Kullu-Manali Airport) |
Where to Stay, Now That Kheerganga Itself Is Off the Table
Barshaini is the trailhead itself, practical and simple, with basic guesthouses. Nakthan sits directly on the shorter route up, a good middle option if you want a shorter first-light start. Kalga is the more scenic, cafe-dotted alternative, popular with longer-staying travellers, and also happens to be one end of our Bunbuni Trek, worth knowing if you want to link the two. Tosh is the furthest but the most photogenic village in the valley, and a popular choice for people extending their trip by a day or two either side.
Why Kheerganga Is Special
The name itself carries a story. Local legend holds that Goddess Parvati once made kheer, a sweet rice pudding, for her son Kartikeya using the warmth of these natural hot springs, and that’s where “Kheerganga” comes from. Whether or not you take the legend literally, the springs themselves are real, genuinely hot, and sit right beside a small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. People believe the water carries healing properties. We won’t claim that as medical fact, but we will say that after a full day’s climb, it’s hard to argue with how it feels.
Beyond the springs, this is one of the most reliable beginner treks in the Parvati Valley: a clear, well-marked trail through apple orchards, deodar and oak forest, past the Parvati River’s constant roar, with genuine village life at Nakthan and the Rudra Nag waterfall along the way.
Best Time to Go
March through June and September through November are the reliable windows, with clear skies and dry trails. Avoid the peak monsoon months when the trail turns slippery and the Parvati River runs high. Winter trekking is possible for experienced trekkers with proper gear, since snow makes the upper trail genuinely treacherous, but given the 2 PM descent deadline now in force, shorter winter daylight hours make careful timing even more important than before.
How to Reach Barshaini
Take an overnight Volvo bus to Bhuntar, then a local taxi or bus to Kasol, then onward to Barshaini. If you’re driving directly, it’s roughly 7 hours from Chandigarh via Mandi and Bhuntar. Flying in, Bhuntar Airport is nearest, about 2 hours by cab from Barshaini. We provide pickup and drop from Kasol, Bhuntar, and Chandigarh on request.
Altitude Profile
Route Options
Via Nakthan village is the shorter, more commonly used route, and somewhat steeper for it. Cross the bridge just after Barshaini and take the left turn toward Nakthan. Most first-timers take this route.
Via Kalga village is the longer alternate, gentler in places, and a good option if you’re already staying in Kalga the night before or want a quieter trail with fewer other trekkers on it.
Day-Trek Itinerary
Since Kheerganga itself is off-limits overnight, plan around a genuine pre-dawn start from wherever you’re staying. Here’s how the day actually breaks down for the standard Nakthan route:
- Before sunrise: Start from Barshaini or Nakthan, well before first light, to comfortably arrive before the 10 AM cutoff.
- Early morning: Climb through orchard and forest, crossing the bridge toward Nakthan, then continuing up past Rudra Nag.
- Mid-morning: Arrive at Kheerganga, register if not already done at the Barshaini checkpost, and head straight to the hot springs.
- Late morning to early afternoon: Time at the springs, the temple, and the meadow. Keep a firm eye on the clock, you need to be descending by 2 PM.
- Afternoon: Descend back to Barshaini or Nakthan, reaching your overnight base by evening.
Difficulty & Fitness
Official rating: Easy to moderate. This remains one of the most beginner-friendly treks in the region, suitable for first-timers, solo travellers, and families with older children. The trail is well-marked throughout. The one thing that’s changed is the time pressure: you’re now working against a firm clock rather than a flexible overnight schedule, so reasonable fitness and an early start matter more than they used to.
What to Pack
| Category | Items |
| Clothing | Layered jacket, quick-dry hiking pants, cap or sun hat, an extra pair of socks |
| Footwear | Sturdy, broken-in trekking shoes, avoid new shoes or smooth-soled sneakers, the descent has steep, loose sections |
| For the hot spring | Swimwear, a quick-dry towel, a change of clothes, a plastic bag for wet items on the way down |
| Practical | Sunglasses, sunscreen, a headlamp in case your descent runs later than planned, a refillable water bottle, high-energy snacks, valid photo ID for registration |
Given the firm 2 PM descent deadline, pack light enough to move quickly rather than for an overnight you’re no longer allowed to have.
Cost Breakdown
| Expense | Estimate |
| Registration fee (Nakthan route, Barshaini checkpost) | Small local fee; confirm current amount at the checkpost before starting |
| Overnight stay in Barshaini/Nakthan/Kalga/Tosh | ₹600–1,500 per night |
| Guided day-trek package with Trekking Cougars | ₹1,500–2,500 |
| Transport to Barshaini (from Bhuntar/Kasol) | ₹500–1,500 |
Combine It With
Since Kheerganga is now a single day rather than an overnight anchor, most people build a longer Parvati Valley trip around it. A night in Tosh before or after makes for one of the most photogenic combinations in the valley. If you’re up for something longer and more offbeat, our Bunbuni Trek connects Kalga to Kheerganga over Bun Buni Pass, effectively turning this into the final leg of a bigger, quieter route most trekkers never discover.
Common Mistakes First-Timers Make
- Planning to camp at Kheerganga. Consequence: arriving with tents and being turned away or fined. Fix: book overnight accommodation in Nakthan, Barshaini, Kalga, or Tosh instead, before you leave home.
- Starting too late. Consequence: missing the 10 AM entry cutoff after a long drive the same morning. Fix: stay overnight nearby and start before sunrise.
- Losing track of time at the springs. Consequence: still being up top past 2 PM. Fix: set an alarm, it’s easy to lose an hour in that water without noticing.
- Trusting outdated blogs. Consequence: planning an overnight stay that no longer exists. Fix: cross-check any Kheerganga content against its publish date, this rule only took effect in July 2024.
Weather Contingency
| Condition | What This Means for a Day-Trek |
| Light rain | Trek continues, but the descent takes longer on wet, loose ground, start earlier to keep your 2 PM buffer |
| Heavy rain or monsoon conditions | We reschedule rather than risk the trail or the deadline together, this is when most cancellations happen |
| Winter snow | The upper trail gets genuinely treacherous. Only attempt with an experienced guide and proper gear, and build in extra time given shorter daylight |
Emergency Contacts
Trekking Cougars Coordinator: +91 81988 38368 (WhatsApp)
Email: contact@trekkingcougars.com
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I still camp overnight at Kheerganga?
A: No. The Himachal Pradesh Forest Department banned overnight camping at Kheerganga in July 2024, and the ban remains fully enforced for 2026. It’s a day-trek destination only, with entry before 10 AM and mandatory descent by 2 PM.
Q: Where do I stay overnight for the Kheerganga trek now?
A: Nakthan, Barshaini, Kalga, or Tosh village all offer overnight accommodation near the trailhead, since camping at Kheerganga itself is no longer permitted.
Q: How difficult is the Kheerganga trek?
A: Easy to moderate, and still one of the most beginner-friendly treks in the Parvati Valley, suitable for first-timers and families.
Q: How long is the Kheerganga trek?
A: About 12 to 13 km one way from Barshaini, taking 4 to 6 hours to climb.
Q: What happens if I break the Kheerganga day-trek rule?
A: Violators risk permit revocation and an FIR, not just a fine, under the Forest Department’s enforcement of the 2024 camping ban.
The hot springs haven’t changed. The Shiva temple hasn’t changed. What changed is how you have to plan the day, and we’d rather you hear that from us before you’re standing at the checkpost finding out the hard way.
Do the Kheerganga day-trek properly, with Trekking Cougars.
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WhatsApp Trekking Cougars at +91 81988 38368 or email contact@trekkingcougars.com.
